A conservation project that happens to be a camp
The family: SUJAN began at Ranthambore, where Jaisal Singh opened SUJAN Sher Bagh in 2000 on his family's farm. The Serai followed near Jaisalmer in 2009.
Why Jawai: the hills here hold leopards living among villages and herders, outside any national park, and the family saw a chance to show that tourism could protect that balance.
- Launched
- 2013, first guests December 2013
- Founders
- Jaisal and Anjali Singh
- Sister camps
- SUJAN Sher Bagh (2000), The Serai (2009)
- Member of
- Relais and Chateaux
- SUJAN calls it
- A conservation tourism project
- One of the first: it was among the first luxury camps in Jawai, when the area was known mainly to photographers and pilgrims.
- The design: canvas, vintage furniture and wildlife portraits, with colours drawn from the granite and from the dress of the Rabari herders.
- The aim: SUJAN describes JAWAI as a conservation tourism project, with the camp's income, jobs and influence used to keep the landscape as it is.
- The place itself: our main Jawai guide explains the land, the leopards and the people in full.
Granite, fields and a great reservoir
Where it is: in the Godwar country of Pali district, between Udaipur and Jodhpur, at the southern edge of Marwar.
The rocks: the hills are among the oldest in India, outliers of the Aravalli range, weathered into domes, ledges and caves that make perfect leopard dens.
- The water: the Jawai Bandh reservoir, completed by Jodhpur state in 1957, feeds the farms and draws birds in winter.
- The villages: fields of wheat, mustard and millet run right up to the rocks, and herders graze goats, sheep and cattle across the hills.
- The camp's place: the tents sit among granite outcrops and scrub, so you wake to the rocks rather than to a road.
- Not a national park: there are no gates, zones or permits as at Ranthambore. Each camp runs its own drives, which makes the choice of camp far more important.
Leopards that live beside people
Ask a Rabari elder why the leopards are tolerated and you may hear several answers: that the cat is the goddess's own, that a lost goat is the price of living here, that the leopards were here first. The truth is a mixture of faith, habit and patience, and it is rarer than it should be.
Density: SUJAN describes the area as holding one of the highest densities of leopards anywhere, though counts vary and nobody claims precision.
- Where they live: in caves and crevices of the granite hills, often within sight of village temples and fields.
- When you see them: mostly at dawn and dusk, resting on ledges or moving between rocks. The middle of the day is for sleeping.
- What else you see: hyenas, jungle cats, nilgai, wild boar, sloth bears in some hills, and a great variety of birds.
- Read more: our journal on the leopards of Jawai tells the story of the cats and the people who share their hills.
How the camp watches leopards
Naturalists and trackers: drives run twice a day with experienced naturalists and trackers, many from the villages around the camp.
No baiting, no chasing: the practices that have given parts of Jawai a bad name, baiting with livestock, spotlighting at night and crowding cave mouths, are exactly what an ethical camp refuses.
- Restraint as standard: a good team will sometimes leave a sighting early or refuse to join a crowd of jeeps. We see that as part of what you pay for.
- The rules: recent court orders and state rules have tightened regulation of safari vehicles and practices in Jawai. Our Jawai guide explains them.
- Questions to ask any camp: are your vehicles registered, how many guests share a jeep, have you ever used bait or lights, and how do you support the herders?
- Our wider view: our page on ethical animal encounters sets out the standards we apply everywhere.
Canvas among the rocks
Tented suites: most sleep two and have a private deck looking over the rocks and scrub, with a writing desk and lounge furniture.
For families: a suite of two tents sharing a plinth and veranda suits a family or a group of four.
- A private pool: a secluded suite set apart from the main camp has its own heated pool and its own lounge and dining tent, a favourite with honeymooners.
- A camp of your own: a separate private encampment has three bedrooms, its own pool, lounge, dining area and boma, an open-air fire circle.
- In winter: heaters, hot water bottles and warm bedding. In the warm months, shade and cool canvas.
- No promises: we request the suite that suits you, but allocation stays with the camp. Book the larger suites well ahead.
A day at JAWAI, from dawn to the fire
Dawn drive
- Before sunrise: tea, a blanket and an open vehicle into the hills while the rock is still cold.
- What to expect: leopards on ledges catching the first sun, herders setting out, and birds over the fields.
Morning
- Breakfast: often laid out among the rocks, with fruit, parathas, eggs and more chai.
- Then: a Rabari-led walk, a visit to the reservoir, a horse ride or simply your deck and a book.
Afternoon
- Rest: the hot hours are for sleeping, reading and a long lunch.
- Late drive: out again around four, to watch the leopards wake and the granite turn gold.
Evening
- Dinner: around a fire in camp or out on the rocks under the stars.
- After dark: staff walk guests to their tents, and nobody wanders the camp alone.
Walking with the Rabari
Who they are: the Rabari are a pastoral community of western India, herding camels, goats, sheep and cattle across Rajasthan and Gujarat for centuries.
How to recognise them: men in white with bright red turbans, women in black wool shawls with heavy silver jewellery.
- Walks and hikes: the camp's guided walks are led by Rabari guides who know every path, cave and grazing ground in the hills.
- Village walks: visits to nearby villages show how farming and herding fit around the leopards.
- Respect: ask before you photograph anyone, accept tea if offered, and let your guide lead the conversation.
- Read more: our page on the Rabari herders of Jawai and our journal on the Rabari go deeper.
Temples, horses and birds
Temple trails: SUJAN counts close to three hundred temples and shrines in the region, many on hilltops, some with leopards living in the rocks below.
Marwari horses: rides through fields and dry riverbeds on the region's famous horses, with their inward-curving ears. Our page on Marwari horse safaris explains the breed.
- Birding: more than 240 species have been recorded in the area, from raptors over the granite to waterbirds on the reservoir in winter.
- The reservoir: Jawai Bandh at dusk, with herders bringing animals to water, is one of the loveliest scenes in Rajasthan.
- Day trips: the Jain temple at Ranakpur and the great walls of Kumbhalgarh make good outings on the way in or out.
Eating in camp
Local flavours: bajra rotis with white butter, ker sangri, gatte in a yoghurt curry, dal baati churma, and laal maas for meat-eaters.
The Rabari kitchen: milk, buttermilk and ghee at its heart. On a walk you may be offered tea brewed over a small fire.
- Where you eat: in camp, out among the rocks, or in the private dining tents of the larger suites.
- Dietary needs: tell us in advance about Jain, vegan or allergy needs, so the kitchen can plan its supplies.
- Learn more: our Rajasthani food guide explains the dishes.
What most visitors miss
The herders' timing: Rabari herders move their animals at the same hours as the leopards. Watch how each keeps its distance from the other.
The temple steps: many hill shrines have whitewashed steps climbing the granite, and leopards are sometimes seen resting near them at dusk.
- The reservoir birds: in winter the water draws ducks, geese, cranes and waders, and the drive along its edge is a birding trip of its own.
- The fields: wheat and mustard in winter, millet after the rains. Farming here sets the rhythm of the whole landscape.
- The night sounds: from your tent, listen for nightjars, owls and, far off, the call of a hyena.
- The silence of the rock: sit on a granite dome at sunset with no vehicle in sight. Your guide can find you a safe one.
When to come
October to March: warm days, cool nights and soft light, the season most guests choose.
November to February: cold mornings and evenings, so bring layers for the open vehicle, and migratory birds on the reservoir.
- Main season
- October to March
- Winter birds
- November to February
- Cold mornings
- November to February
- Hot months
- March to May
- Rains
- Mainly July to September
- March to May: hot by day. Some photographers come for leopards near water and shade.
- The monsoon: rain can interrupt drives, though the green hills are beautiful. Camp seasons vary, so we confirm dates before planning.
- Busy weeks: Christmas, New Year and Indian holiday weekends book out months ahead.
- Month by month: see our guide to the best time to visit Jawai.
How long to allow
Two nights
- Drives: three or four, with one Rabari walk or a horse ride between them.
- Good for: a wild break on the road between Udaipur and Jodhpur.
Three nights
- Drives: five or six, with time for a temple trail, the reservoir and a morning on the rocks.
- Good for: most guests, and the length we recommend. Our Jawai itinerary is built on it.
Four nights or more
- Drives: seven or eight, with day trips to Ranakpur or Kumbhalgarh.
- Good for: photographers and anyone who wants Jawai to be the slow heart of a long journey.
Who SUJAN JAWAI suits
Couples and honeymooners: a suite with its own pool and dinners for two on the rocks. Our Rajasthan honeymoons often pair Jawai with Udaipur.
Photographers: experienced naturalists and private vehicles let you stay with a relaxed leopard and wait for the light. Allow three nights.
- Families: children old enough to sit quietly on drives usually love Jawai, and the family suites or private encampment make it easy.
- Groups of friends: the private encampment, with its own pool and fire circle, is like having a camp to yourselves.
- Travellers wanting a palace: a heritage stay such as Rawla Narlai, about an hour away, with a single drive, may suit better.
- Compare: our guide to luxury hotels in Jawai explains how we choose camps here.
SUJAN JAWAI on our journeys
Palaces and Tigers: three nights here after Ranthambore, tigers then leopards, before ending in Udaipur.
Big cats and birds: the journey ends with three nights in the granite after Bharatpur, Ranthambore and Udaipur.
- Family adventure: two nights between Jodhpur and Kumbhalgarh.
- Luxury trains: three nights of quiet after a week aboard.
- Tigers or leopards: our journal on Jawai or Ranthambore helps you choose, or combine both.
Before you go
Book early: the camp is small, and the family suites and private encampment go first, especially over Christmas and New Year.
Tell the camp your needs: ages of children, mobility, diet and any fears of heights or open vehicles.
- Book
- Months ahead for winter
- Allow
- Three nights for most guests
- Pack
- Warm layers, binoculars, a scarf
- Children
- Some activities have age limits
- Dress in villages
- Covered shoulders and knees
- Layers: cold dawns, hot afternoons and cool evenings can all come in one winter day.
- Cameras: a long lens helps for leopards on high ledges, but binoculars matter more for most guests. Ask before photographing any herder or villager.
- Tipping: thanking your naturalist, tracker and driver at the end of a stay is customary. Our page on money and tipping explains what is usual.
Getting to SUJAN JAWAI
From Udaipur: the road climbs through the Aravallis, and we often stop at Ranakpur on the way.
From Jodhpur: a straightforward drive south through Marwar farmland.
- From Udaipur
- About 160 km by road
- From Jodhpur
- About 165 km by road
- Drive time
- About two and a half to three hours
- Nearest station
- Falna, about 30 minutes
- Charter airstrip
- Sirohi, about 1 hour 10 minutes
- By train: Falna station, on the line from Jaipur and Ajmer, is about half an hour from camp. Our page on trains in Rajasthan explains booking.
- By charter: private aircraft can use the Sirohi airfield. Our helicopter and charter journeys team can plan it.
- Your chauffeur: stays with you throughout, so arrivals and onward drives are seamless.
What we tell friends before Jawai
Stay three nights if you can: leopards are reliable here, but light, weather and luck vary.
Dress for cold mornings: from November to February, the open vehicle at dawn is chilly.
- Bring binoculars: leopards on high ledges are often far away.
- Never walk the hills alone: go with your guide, and stay within camp after dark.
- Tell the camp about children and mobility: some walks and activities have age or fitness limits.
- Buy from the villages: ask your guide about Rabari embroidery and local crafts sold directly by the makers.