Why a train, on a private journey
We love the road: a private chauffeur remains the backbone of almost every journey we plan. But on some routes the train is simply better.
Faster out of Delhi: the fast trains beat the car, with no city traffic, a seat by the window and a meal brought to you.
A change of rhythm: on a long journey, a train day breaks the driving and lets you stretch your legs.
- Backbone
- Private chauffeur
- Train shines
- Fast lines out of Delhi
- Main line
- Delhi to Mumbai, via Kota
- Desert lines
- Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer
- Best use
- Train where it shines, car elsewhere
- A different India: the station platforms, the families sharing food, the countryside rolling past without a truck in front of you.
- A vast network: Indian Railways is one of the largest railway systems in the world, and Rajasthan is threaded with its lines.
- The lines: the main Delhi to Mumbai line runs through Sawai Madhopur and Kota in the east, and long desert lines run west to Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaisalmer.
- Not every line is fast: and not every station is close to where you want to be.
- On this page: the routes we use, how classes work, booking and the foreign tourist quota, stations, and how we handle luggage and transfers.
- Read alongside: our guide to getting around Rajasthan, and our honest journal comparison of train versus car.
The rail journeys worth taking
- Delhi to Jaipur
- A little over four hours
- Delhi to Agra
- Under two hours, Gatimaan
- To Sawai Madhopur
- Around five hours from Delhi
- Bundi from Kota
- Forty minutes
- Pushkar from Ajmer
- About 15 km
- Sariska from Alwar
- About forty-five minutes
Delhi to Jaipur
The busiest line: and the most useful in the state.
- Fast daytime trains: Shatabdi and Vande Bharat services take a little over four hours, with reclining seats, air-conditioning and meals included on many services.
- By road: about four to five hours, sometimes less on the new expressway, but leaving Delhi by car can be slow.
- How we use it: an afternoon train after a morning's sightseeing in Delhi, with your chauffeur waiting on the platform in Jaipur. Read the Jaipur guide.
Delhi to Agra on the Gatimaan Express
One of India's fastest runs: the Gatimaan Express from Delhi's Hazrat Nizamuddin station reaches Agra Cantonment in under two hours.
- Onward: it continues to Gwalior and Jhansi, the natural way into the temples of central India.
- Other fast trains: Shatabdi and Vande Bharat services also run between Delhi and Agra.
- By road: the Yamuna Expressway takes about three to four hours. See the Agra guide.
Delhi to Sawai Madhopur for Ranthambore
On the main line: Sawai Madhopur, the station for Ranthambore, is on the Delhi to Mumbai line, ten to fifteen minutes from most lodges.
- Train beats road: fast trains from Delhi take around five hours, against six to seven by road, and many of our guests prefer them.
- From Jaipur: the road is about three and a half hours and usually easier.
Delhi to Kota, for Bundi and Hadoti
Kota Junction: on the same main line, with fast day and overnight trains, including Rajdhani services, from Delhi.
- The easiest way in: Kota has no regular commercial flights, so the train is the best route to Bundi, forty minutes away, and the rest of Hadoti.
- Bundi's own station: it has a small one too.
Overnight to Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bikaner and Udaipur
Night trains: they link Delhi with Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Udaipur, among them the Mandore Express to Jodhpur.
- An adventure: a First AC coupé on a night train, and you wake in the desert.
- Only for sound sleepers: the berths are firm, the stops are many and arrival is often at dawn.
- Usually more restful: for most journeys, a flight or a day on the road.
Delhi or Jaipur to Ajmer, for Pushkar
Ajmer Junction: a major station, with fast trains from Jaipur and Delhi.
- Pushkar: Pushkar is about 15 kilometres beyond it, over the Nag Pahar ridge.
- Pilgrims and the fair: for the dargah and the Pushkar fair, the train is often the easiest way in.
Jhansi for Orchha, and the road south
Onward from Agra: the Gatimaan Express runs on to Gwalior and Jhansi, now formally Virangana Lakshmibai Jhansi.
- Close to Orchha: under half an hour from Orchha.
- Our Bundelkhand backbone: with a chauffeur waiting at Jhansi.
Delhi to Alwar for Sariska, and Bharatpur for the birds
Alwar: on the main Delhi to Jaipur line, about forty-five minutes from the tiger reserve at Sariska, and fast day trains stop there.
- Bharatpur Junction: on the Delhi to Mumbai line, it puts the Keoladeo bird sanctuary within easy reach by rail.
- Short escapes: both work from Delhi without a long drive out of the city.
Where the car is better
Jaipur to Udaipur: trains exist, but most are slower than the road, and the road lets you stop at Chittorgarh, Bundi or Pushkar. A one-hour flight is the fast option.
Udaipur to Jodhpur: there is no convenient direct fast train, and the hill road via Ranakpur is one of the most beautiful drives in Rajasthan.
- Jodhpur to Jaisalmer: trains run, but the five-hour drive through Marwar's villages, timed to reach the fort as it turns gold, is part of the journey.
- The last stretch: for Shekhawati, Samode, Narlai, Rohet, Jawai or a desert camp, small stations exist, but the final leg is always by road, so we drive the whole way.
- When you want to stop: a stepwell, a village, a temple or a chai stall. Trains don't wait.
- The road comparison: our page on road distances and drive times covers every main route.
Classes, explained plainly
- EC
- Executive Chair Car, daytime
- CC
- AC Chair Car, daytime
- 1A
- First AC, lockable coupés
- 2A
- AC Two Tier, curtained berths
- 3A and SL
- Three-tier berths
Executive Chair Car (EC)
The top daytime class: on fast trains such as the Shatabdi, Vande Bharat and Gatimaan services.
- What you get: wide reclining seats in rows of two and two, air-conditioning, and meals and drinks at your seat on many services.
- Our first choice: what we book for daytime journeys whenever it is available.
AC Chair Car (CC)
- Standard class: on the same trains, with narrower seats in rows of three and two.
- A good fallback: perfectly comfortable for a few hours when Executive is full.
First AC (1A)
The top overnight class: on overnight and long-distance trains.
- Coupés: lockable, with two or four berths and bedding provided.
- Honest note: the most private way to travel overnight on an ordinary train, but carriages are older than you might expect, and only some trains carry it.
AC Two Tier (2A)
- The layout: open bays of four berths with two more along the corridor, with curtains for privacy and bedding provided.
- Families' favourite: comfortable and sociable, the most common choice of Indian families on long journeys.
AC Three Tier (3A) and Sleeper
- The layout: three-tier berths, air-conditioned in 3A and open-windowed in Sleeper class.
- Not for a luxury journey: good value and full of life, but crowded, so we wouldn't book them.
The royal trains
- A different world: the Palace on Wheels and the Maharajas' Express run week-long and shorter journeys in private cabins and suites, with dining cars and staff for each carriage.
- More below: and in our luxury trains guide.
Booking, quotas and waiting lists
- Sold by
- IRCTC online and station counters
- WL
- Waitlisted
- RAC
- Shared berth, may upgrade
- Foreign quota
- Foreign passports only
- Always carry
- Passport and ticket
How tickets are sold
Where: through Indian Railways' online system, run by IRCTC, and at station counters.
- When: bookings open a set period before travel. That period has changed more than once in recent years, so we check the current rule for your dates.
- Book early: popular trains in the season fill quickly, so we book as soon as your route is settled.
The foreign tourist quota
A reserved share: Indian Railways keeps a small quota on many trains for visitors on foreign passports, and it can make a sold-out train bookable.
- The rules: passport details for every passenger, higher fares than ordinary ones, and you must carry the passport you booked with.
- Why guests leave it to us: the rules for registering and booking online as a foreign visitor have changed over the years.
Waiting lists and RAC
WL and RAC: a WL ticket is waitlisted, and RAC means a shared berth that may become a full one.
- Confirmations: often come through as others cancel, and a final chart is prepared before departure.
- Our rule: we rely only on confirmed tickets, and keep a road plan in reserve for any train that matters.
Your ticket and identity
- On every train: carry your passport and the ticket, on your phone or printed. The ticket examiner checks names against identity documents.
- Finding your place: coach and berth numbers are on the ticket, coach numbers are painted on each carriage and usually shown on boards along the platform.
Stations and platforms
Busy and fascinating: stations are noisy and can be overwhelming the first time.
Never alone: on every train journey we arrange, your chauffeur or a representative takes you in, finds the platform and coach, and sees you and your luggage aboard. At the other end, someone meets you at the carriage door.
- Porters: licensed porters, called coolies, wear red shirts and a numbered brass armband, and carry astonishing loads on their heads. We arrange and pay them for you.
- Platform changes: they happen at short notice, so we watch the announcements and station apps on your behalf.
- Arrive in good time: fast trains stop for only a few minutes at intermediate stations.
Delhi's stations
More than one: trains to Rajasthan leave from several major stations.
- New Delhi: serves many Shatabdi and Rajdhani services.
- Hazrat Nizamuddin: in the south, the station for the Gatimaan Express and many trains to the south and west.
- Also: Delhi Cantonment and Old Delhi serve some Rajasthan trains. Always check which station your train uses.
Rajasthan's main stations
Jaipur Junction: the busiest, with its pink arched facade.
- Major stops: Jodhpur, Udaipur City, Ajmer, Bikaner, Kota, Sawai Madhopur and Abu Road, at the foot of Mount Abu.
- Useful smaller stations: Bandikui for the Abhaneri stepwell, Alwar for Sariska and Bharatpur for the bird sanctuary.
On board: food, comfort and luggage
Meals at your seat: on many fast daytime trains, meals and tea are included. They are simple, vegetarian or non-vegetarian on request, and we often send a packed lunch from your hotel too.
Water: drink sealed bottled water only. Hot tea from the vendors is boiled and safe.
Cold carriages: air-conditioning on Indian trains is set cold. Carry a light jacket or shawl, even in summer.
- Meals
- Included on many fast trains
- Water
- Sealed bottles only
- Air-conditioning
- Set cold, bring a shawl
- Best bag
- Soft bag and small backpack
- Overnight
- Chain and padlock
- Luggage racks are limited: a soft bag and a small backpack are far easier than a large hard suitcase. On longer journeys we send heavy bags ahead by road.
- Valuables: keep them with you, and lock your bag to the berth on overnight trains with a small chain and padlock.
- Toilets: clean enough on modern fast trains. On older trains, carry tissues and sanitiser.
- Delays: trains can run late, especially in winter fog and the monsoon. We never schedule an important connection straight after a train.
- Photography: from the window is fine, and fellow passengers will often want to chat. Be careful with bridges, stations near military areas and railway staff, and ask before photographing people.
- Sensitive stomach: eat lightly on long journeys and stick to hotel food or sealed packets. Our food guide explains how we eat safely on the road.
- Open doors: on many older trains they stay open while moving. Keep children away from them and from the gaps between carriages.
The royal trains
- Palace on Wheels
- Since 1982, about a week
- Maharajas' Express
- Since 2010, run by IRCTC
- Season
- The cooler months
- Departures
- We confirm each year
The Palace on Wheels
Launched in 1982: by Rajasthan's tourism corporation with Indian Railways.
- The loop: about a week from Delhi through Jaipur, Sawai Madhopur for Ranthambore, Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bharatpur and Agra.
- Its character: it leans into Rajasthani heritage in its decoration and its stops.
- Season: it runs in the cooler months and rests in summer and the monsoon. Departures and details change, so ask us to confirm them for your year.
The Maharajas' Express
Run by IRCTC since 2010: the more modern and lavish of the two.
- Accommodation: Deluxe Cabins, Junior Suites, Suites and a Presidential Suite that fills a whole carriage.
- Itineraries: several of three or six nights, some reaching beyond Rajasthan.
- Season: it too runs in the cooler months. We confirm the current routes and dates when we plan.
Wrapping private days around a train
What a train can't do: it shows you the grand stage of Rajasthan, but can't take you to a village fort or the leopard hills of Jawai.
- Before and after: we add quiet nights, keep your extra luggage while you are on board, and meet you on the platform when you return.
- Go deeper: our journal review of the Palace on Wheels and our Maharajas' Express guide.
Slow trains and scenic lines
The Goram Ghat line near Deogarh
The line: near Deogarh, an old metre-gauge line winds through the Aravalli hills, through tunnels and over bridges, past the little station of Goram Ghat.
- The views: forested ravines, especially green after the monsoon. Local families treat it as an outing.
- An excursion, not a way in: its services have changed over the years, so we check whether and when it is running before we plan it.
The desert lines
Slow but rewarding: the long lines towards Jaisalmer and Bikaner.
- The Thar at dawn: dunes and khejri trees passing and peacocks on the fences, a sight no car gives you in the same way.
- For rail lovers: a daytime stretch in the desert can be a happy addition to a journey.
Your first Indian train, step by step
- Day bag
- Water, shawl, snacks, passport
- Heavy bags
- Ahead in the car
- Long trains
- Several hundred metres
- At arrival
- Met at your coach
The day before
Your ticket: we send it with the train number, departure station, coach and seat or berth, and your chauffeur's collection time.
- A small day bag: water, a shawl, snacks, your passport and anything you want on board.
- Heavy bags: they can go ahead in the car.
At the station
Walked in: your chauffeur drops you at the entrance and walks in with you, or a representative meets you there.
- Security: luggage goes through a scanner at many stations.
- Your spot: a porter carries the bags to the platform, and we find where your coach will stop, because long trains can stretch for several hundred metres.
Boarding
Board promptly: fast trains stop only briefly at intermediate stations.
- Check the coach: the number is on the side of the carriage. Find your seat and stow your bags.
- Documents: passport and ticket stay in your pocket for the ticket examiner.
On the way
Watch the country: mustard fields in winter, camels at a level crossing, women in bright odhnis at a village halt.
- Tea and meals: arrive on many fast services.
- Your planner: on WhatsApp if anything changes.
Arrival
- Met at the door: your chauffeur or a representative is on the platform at your coach, with a porter ready for the bags.
- Within minutes: you are in the car and on your way to the hotel.
Trains through the seasons
Winter fog: from about mid-December to January, dense fog over the plains of north India slows trains, sometimes for hours, especially overnight services and early departures from Delhi.
How we plan for fog: daytime trains, and a generous cushion before anything that cannot be missed.
- Fog
- Mid-December to January
- Monsoon
- July to September
- Busiest weeks
- Diwali, Holi, holiday weekends
- Summer
- Easier to book
- The monsoon: from July to September, heavy rain can cause delays and occasional cancellations, though Rajasthan is drier than most of India.
- Festival weeks: around Diwali, Holi and the long holiday weekends, trains fill with families going home and tickets sell out early. If your journey falls then, we book as soon as your route is fixed.
- Summer: trains are easier to book, and an air-conditioned carriage is a pleasant escape from the heat. Our weather and climate guide explains each season.
Journeys where the train works best
The Golden Triangle by rail and road
The route: the Gatimaan Express from Delhi to Agra for the Taj Mahal, a drive from Agra to Jaipur via the Abhaneri stepwell, and a fast afternoon train back to Delhi.
- Why it works: it avoids the slowest roads and keeps the most interesting one.
- Our version: the Golden Triangle classic can be built this way.
Tigers by train
- The route: a fast train from Delhi to Sawai Madhopur, three nights at Ranthambore, then a drive to Jaipur in about three and a half hours.
- Why it works: the easiest way into tiger country from the capital.
Into central India
- The route: finish in Agra, take the Gatimaan on to Gwalior or Jhansi, and continue by road to Orchha and Khajuraho.
- Our version: the Rajasthan, Orchha and Khajuraho journey follows this line.
How we combine trains with a chauffeur
Once or twice a journey: an afternoon Shatabdi or Vande Bharat from Delhi to Jaipur, or the Gatimaan from Delhi to Agra and on to Jhansi.
The car goes ahead: your chauffeur drives it with your heavy luggage and meets you at the destination platform, so you step off the train into the same car you left.
- A restful rhythm: on a two-week journey, mixing road and rail keeps the days varied.
- Families: they often enjoy trains most of all, and children love the platforms and the vendors. Our guide to travelling with children has more ideas.
- Limited mobility: Indian stations involve stairs, footbridges and high carriage steps. Tell us in advance and we arrange porters and assistance, or plan the leg by road. See our accessible travel guide.