खम्मा घणी Khamma ghani, a Rajasthani welcome
Wind-rippled sand dunes at Sam in the Thar Desert near Jaisalmer
Photo: Roshanrajverma, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Rajasthan or Kerala: desert palaces or green backwaters, and how to choose

Friends from abroad often ask us this as if it were a small question. It isn't. Rajasthan and Kerala sit at opposite ends of India and feel like different countries. We are a Rajasthan family, so we will be honest about our bias, and just as honest about when you should go south instead.

The choice in one minute

If you only read one part of this, read this. The rest of the piece explains our reasons.

Choose Rajasthan if: you want history you can walk through, palace hotels that were once royal homes, bazaars, crafts and a desert night under the stars.

Choose Kerala if: you want water and green, a houseboat, a beach, a spa, and days where the only decision is lunch.

Facts to know
Landscape
Desert and dry hills, or lagoons and palms
Climate
Dry with cold winter nights, or warm and humid
Stays
Palaces and forts, or houseboats and beach hotels
Days
Sightseeing, or slowing down
Gateway
Delhi for Rajasthan, Kochi for Kerala
  • Choose both if: you have twelve nights or more and want to see how different one country can be. Read our Rajasthan and Kerala together piece.
  • For a first visit to India: Rajasthan, usually with Delhi and the Taj Mahal. It shows you the India most people have dreamed about.
  • For a second visit: Kerala, if you have already seen the north and want something gentler.
  • The deciding question: do you want to be amazed, or do you want to rest? Rajasthan amazes. Kerala rests.
Local tip
Ask yourself what photograph you want on your wall at home. A fort on a cliff means Rajasthan. A canal at dawn means Kerala. People are rarely wrong about this.

Two landscapes at opposite ends of India

In Rajasthan, a well was once worth a war. In Kerala, it rains so much that roofs are built steep to shed the water. Everything else follows from that difference.

Rajasthan, the land of kings

Size: India's largest state by area, from the Thar Desert in the west to the Aravalli hills and forests in the east.

The look: sand, scrub and stone, with lakes made by kings and forts on every ridge.

  • The old kingdoms: Mewar, Marwar, Dhundhar, Maad, Hadoti and more, each with its own palace city. See our destinations for all of them.
  • The colours: saffron turbans, pink and red odhnis, the women's head-cloths, and mirror-work against the sand.
  • The air: dry, with sharp sun and cold winter nights in the desert.
Read our first-timer's guide to Rajasthan

Kerala, the green coast

Where: a long, narrow state on India's south-western coast, between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats.

The look: coconut palms, paddy fields, lagoons and canals behind the coast, and tea and spice estates on the hills inland.

  • The history: centuries of sea trade in pepper and spices with Arab, Chinese and later European merchants.
  • The colours: cream and gold handloom cotton, white dhotis and endless green.
  • The air: warm and humid day and night, with showers possible even in the dry season.

What a day feels like in each

The real difference is not on the map. It is in how you spend the hours between breakfast and dinner.
A wooden houseboat moving along a palm-lined backwater canal in Kerala in soft morning light
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A day in Rajasthan

Morning: a fort at opening time, such as Amber or Mehrangarh, with a guide whose family has lived below it for generations.

Midday: a long lunch and a rest behind palace walls, out of the sun.

  • Afternoon: a bazaar, a block-printing village or a drive to the next city, timed for the evening light.
  • Evening: sunset from a rampart or a boat on Lake Pichola, then dinner in a courtyard with folk musicians.
  • The rhythm: full, varied and sometimes tiring. Most guests move every two or three nights.

A day in Kerala

Morning: mist on the water, herons, the sound of paddles and a slow breakfast.

Midday: a boat drifting between villages and paddy fields, or a long lunch on a banana leaf.

  • Afternoon: a spa, a swim, a walk through a spice garden or simply a book.
  • Evening: sunset over the sea or the lagoon, and perhaps a Kathakali dance-drama.
  • The rhythm: slow and soft. Distances look short but roads are slow, so two or three bases are plenty.
Local tip
If you get restless after a day without a plan, Kerala alone may not suit you. If a busy day exhausts you, build long rests into Rajasthan, or end in the south.

When each is at its best

Happily, the two regions share their best months. The difference comes at either end of the season, and in the monsoon.

October: Rajasthan's season is starting, with Dussehra and often Diwali. Kerala is green but still showery.

November: golden light in Rajasthan and the Pushkar Camel Fair. Kerala dries out through the month.

Facts to know
Best overlap
November to February
Rajasthan hot season
April to June, often above 40°C
Rajasthan monsoon
July to September, green and quiet
Kerala main monsoon
From about June to September
Kerala showers
A second, lighter rainy spell around October
  • December and January: the peak for both. Cold desert nights in Rajasthan, warm dry days in Kerala, and the best rooms booked months ahead.
  • February and March: Rajasthan bright and pleasant, with Holi. Kerala hotter and more humid each week.
  • April to June: too hot for most sightseeing in Rajasthan, and humid in Kerala until the rains arrive.
  • July to September: Udaipur and Mewar turn green and quiet, a season we love. Kerala's main monsoon is heavy and dramatic.
  • Month by month: our guide to the best time to visit Rajasthan.
Local tip
If your only dates are in August, Rajasthan's lake cities are lovely in the rain. Read our piece on monsoon in Udaipur before you decide.

Where you stay

Both regions have wonderful hotels, but of very different kinds. Rajasthan's great luxury is sleeping where kings slept. Kerala's is sleeping beside water.

In Rajasthan

Palace hotels: real royal residences, from Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur to Taj Lake Palace on its island in Udaipur. See palace hotels.

  • Forts and havelis: family forts and merchants' mansions, many still run by the families who built them. See heritage havelis.
  • Desert camps: tents in the dunes near Jaisalmer and Manvar. Read a night in a desert camp.
  • Wildlife lodges: tented camps beside Ranthambore and Jawai. See wildlife lodges.

In Kerala

Houseboats: rice boats converted for guests, drifting on the backwaters. Quality varies widely, so choose carefully.

  • Lagoon and beach resorts: low buildings among palms, often with fine spas.
  • Heritage homes: old tiled-roof houses with carved wooden ceilings, in the port towns and villages.
  • Hill retreats: cool, misty bungalows among the tea and spice estates.
Local tip
If staying in a real palace is the dream, there is no substitute for Rajasthan. Nowhere else in India has so many royal homes you can sleep in.

Two of India's great kitchens

Our kitchen grew up without rain. Kerala's grew up with too much of it. You will not eat the same meal twice.

Rajasthan's staples: ghee, millet, wheat, gram flour, lentils and dried desert beans. Read our Rajasthani food guide.

Rajasthan's dishes: dal baati churma, ker sangri, gatte, the fiery laal maas and a great vegetarian thali. See our Rajasthani thali guide.

  • Rajasthan's sweets: ghevar in the rains, mawa kachori in Jodhpur and malpua in Pushkar. Our Rajasthani sweets guide has the rest.
  • Kerala's staples: rice, coconut, curry leaves, tamarind, black pepper and fresh fish.
  • Kerala's way of eating: often on a banana leaf, with many small dishes, and seafood along the coast.
  • For vegetarians: both are excellent. Rajasthan's Jain and Marwari traditions are among the finest vegetarian cooking in India.
  • Cook it yourself: in Rajasthan, a cooking class in a haveli with a family who measure in handfuls.

History, faith and the arts

Rajasthan faced the land routes from Central Asia, and its kings built forts to hold them. Kerala faced the sea, and its towns grew rich on trade. Both stories are written in their buildings.

In Rajasthan

Royal history: Rajput dynasties, Mughal alliances and sieges, told at every fort. Our best forts of Rajasthan is a good start.

  • Faith: Hindu, Jain and Muslim shrines side by side, from Ranakpur to Ajmer.
  • Music: the Manganiyar singers of the desert and the Kalbelia dancers. See folk music and dance.
  • Crafts: block printing, blue pottery, miniature painting, gems and textiles. See crafts.

In Kerala

Trading history: old port towns with churches, synagogues and spice warehouses.

  • Faith: Hindu temples alongside some of the oldest Christian communities in the world. Many temples admit only Hindus.
  • Performing arts: Kathakali, with painted faces and great costumes, and the martial art of Kalaripayattu.
  • Crafts: handloom cotton, coir and woodwork.

Wildlife and nature

Rajasthan surprises people with its wildlife. Kerala surprises them with how much green one state can hold.

Tigers in Rajasthan: Ranthambore is one of India's best places to see a wild tiger, below a fort on a hill.

Leopards in Rajasthan: Jawai, where leopards live on granite hills among Rabari herders.

  • Birds in Rajasthan: the Keoladeo wetland at Bharatpur in winter, and the demoiselle cranes of Khichan.
  • Kerala's forests: reserves in the Western Ghats shelter elephants, gaur and many birds, best explored on foot or by boat.
  • Kerala's water: herons, kingfishers and cormorants along every backwater canal.
  • Our rule in both: no elephant rides and no captive-animal shows. Our ethical animal encounters page explains why.
Local tip
If wildlife is the reason for your trip, Rajasthan's big cats are the stronger draw. Our Jawai or Ranthambore piece helps you choose between them.

Rest, spas and Ayurveda

Kerala is famous for Ayurveda, and rightly so. But Rajasthan can be restful too, if you plan it that way.

Kerala's strength: a long tradition of Ayurvedic treatment, with resorts and centres built around it.

Know the difference: a resort massage suits anyone. A full traditional course usually needs two weeks or more and a doctor's assessment.

  • Speak to your own doctor first: especially with a health condition. We don't give medical advice.
  • Rajasthan's calm: palace spas, garden pools and long afternoons. See spas and Ayurveda.
  • A slow Rajasthan: our wellness and slow travel journey keeps two or three nights in every place and the mornings unhurried.

Getting there and getting around

Rajasthan is a journey by road between royal cities. Kerala is a slower rhythm of short drives and boats. Each asks something different of your days.

In Rajasthan: a private car with your own chauffeur, with drives timed so the best light is never spent in the car. Read getting around Rajasthan.

Fly the long legs: Jaipur to Udaipur takes about an hour by air against about six hours by road.

Facts to know
Rajasthan gateway
Delhi, about four to five hours from Jaipur by road
Rajasthan airports
Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur
Typical Rajasthan drive
Four to six hours between cities
Kerala gateway
Kochi
Getting around Kerala
Slow roads, short distances, boats
  • Trains in Rajasthan: fast trains link Delhi and Jaipur, and the luxury trains offer a different way to see the state. See luxury trains.
  • In Kerala: distances look short, but roads through towns and hills are slow, so two or three bases are plenty.
  • On the water: in Kerala, the boat is often the best way to travel a few miles, and the journey is the point.
  • Between the two: always by air, with a connection. A train takes well over a day.

What you will carry home

Guests who choose Rajasthan usually need an extra bag by the end. Guests who choose Kerala usually come home with spices and a suntan.

From Rajasthan: hand block prints from Sanganer and Bagru, blue pottery, silver and gemstones, rugs, mojari slippers and leheriya scarves. Our shopping guide explains how to buy well.

Buy from makers: our artisans we work with piece introduces the families we take guests to.

  • Rajasthan's textiles: the state is one of India's great centres of hand printing and tie-dye. See textile shopping.
  • From Kerala: spices such as pepper and cardamom, tea from the hills, handloom cotton and coir.
  • In both: never follow a driver or stranger to a showroom. Commission shopping is the oldest trap in Indian travel.

What people get wrong about each

Most of the doubts we hear come from a single photograph. Here are the misunderstandings we correct most often.

Rajasthan is not all desert: the east is green Aravalli hills, forests and lakes. Udaipur is a city of water.

Rajasthan is not always hot: December and January nights in the Thar can fall close to freezing. Pack a warm layer.

  • Rajasthan is not only forts: there are tigers, leopards, wetlands, painted towns and some of India's finest crafts.
  • Kerala is not only beaches: the backwaters, tea hills and old port towns are as much the point as the sea.
  • Kerala is not dry in the dry season: it is warm and humid all year, and a shower can come at any time.
  • One week is not enough for both: you would spend too much of it in airports. Choose one, and go deeper.
  • A palace hotel is not a theme: in Rajasthan, many were real royal homes, and some families still live in part of them. Read royal families today.
Local tip
If heat worries you, come to Rajasthan between November and February. If humidity worries you, Kerala is better in December and January than in March.

Which one suits you

Before we answer, we ask who is travelling, what they loved on their last holiday and how they feel about early mornings.

First-time visitors to India

  • Our pick: Rajasthan, with Delhi and Agra. See our Rajasthan with the Taj Mahal journey.
  • Why not Kerala first: it is beautiful, but without the north many first-timers feel they have missed the forts and the Taj.

Honeymooners

  • Our pick: both, if you have the time. Palaces first, then quiet water. With less time, Udaipur gives you romance and lakes in one place. See Rajasthan honeymoons.
  • Why it works: a palace night, a desert camp and a boat at sunset give you three different kinds of romance in one country.

Families with children

  • Our pick: Rajasthan, for forts, camels, kites and puppets. Children love the variety. Read Rajasthan with children.
  • Add Kerala for: beaches and boats at the end, when everyone is ready to slow down.

History, architecture and craft lovers

Travellers who need a rest

  • Our pick: Kerala, or a slow Rajasthan built around Udaipur and a hill palace or two.
  • A slow north: our Udaipur romance in four nights is about as restful as Rajasthan gets.

Beach lovers

  • Our pick: Kerala. Rajasthan has lakes and dunes, but no sea.
  • Rajasthan's answer: the lakes of Udaipur and the silence of the dunes at dusk, which some guests come to love just as much.

Doing both on one journey

Many of our guests decide they cannot choose. With enough time, that is a perfectly good answer.

Rajasthan first: do the forts and early starts while your energy is high, and end on the water.

Fly south once: don't zigzag back north for one more sight. It costs a full day.

Facts to know
Minimum
Twelve nights
Balance we like
Sixteen nights, about ten north and six south
Order
Rajasthan first, Kerala last
The link
A flight, usually via Delhi, Mumbai or Bengaluru
Best months
November to February
  • Plan a rest day around the flight: never a sunrise fort and an afternoon flight on the same day.
  • Under twelve nights: choose one region. Our one week and two weeks in Rajasthan pages show what a single region gives you.
  • The full plan: our Rajasthan and Kerala together piece covers nights, flights and packing.

Before you decide

A few honest points we share with every guest who asks this question.

Distance matters: the two are at opposite ends of India. You can't pop from one to the other.

Rajasthan is our home: we plan every hotel, guide and drive there ourselves, and we are best placed to help you there.

  • Winter books early: palace hotels in Rajasthan and the best rooms in the south both fill months ahead for Christmas and New Year.
  • Pack for the climate: layers for cold desert nights, or light cotton for humid southern days. Our packing guide has the list.
  • Dress for temples: shoulders and knees covered in both regions. Our temple etiquette guide explains the rules.
  • No published prices: season, hotels and rooms change everything. Our page on what a luxury journey costs explains how we quote.

Questions about Rajasthan or kerala

These are the questions our guests ask before they come. If yours isn't here, a planner in Jaipur will answer it within a day.

Is Rajasthan or Kerala better for a first trip to India?

Rajasthan, for most first-time visitors. Its forts, palaces, bazaars and desert are the India many people have imagined, and it pairs easily with Delhi and the Taj Mahal. Kerala makes a lovely second trip, or a restful ending if you have the time for both.

Is Kerala more relaxing than Rajasthan?

Yes. Kerala's backwaters, beaches and hills are made for slowing down. Rajasthan is busier, with forts, sightseeing and drives between cities. You can make Rajasthan restful by staying longer in fewer places, especially Udaipur, but Kerala's whole rhythm is slower.

When is the best time to visit Rajasthan and Kerala?

November to February suits both. Rajasthan is dry and clear with cold desert nights, and Kerala is past its rains. December and January are the busiest weeks. Kerala's main monsoon runs from about June to September, and Rajasthan is very hot from April to June.

Which is better for a honeymoon, Rajasthan or Kerala?

Both are wonderful. Rajasthan offers palace hotels, desert camps and Udaipur's lakes. Kerala offers houseboats, beaches and spas. With twelve nights or more, many couples do Rajasthan first and end in Kerala. With a week, Udaipur is our romantic pick.

Can I visit Rajasthan and Kerala in one trip?

Yes, with at least twelve nights, ideally sixteen. See Rajasthan first, then fly south, usually connecting through Delhi, Mumbai or Bengaluru. The flight from Delhi takes about three hours, so allow most of a day door to door.

Which is better for wildlife?

Rajasthan, for big cats. Ranthambore is one of India's best places to see a wild tiger, and Jawai is famous for leopards. Kerala's hill forests hold elephants, gaur and many birds. In both, we avoid elephant rides and captive-animal shows.

Which is better for families with children?

Rajasthan usually wins with children: forts, camels, kites, puppets and desert camps keep them busy. Kerala's beaches and boats are lovely for a slower end to a family trip. Many families enjoy both.
Written and checked by our Jaipur team, last updated 2026-10-16.
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