Holi at a glance
Bonfire night: Holika Dahan, on the evening of the full moon.
Colour day: Dhulandi, the next morning.
- When
- The full moon of Phalgun, usually March
- Where
- Udaipur, Jaipur, Braj, Pushkar, Shekhawati
- Lasts
- A bonfire night and a morning of colour
- Best day
- Dhulandi, the morning after the full moon
- Book by
- Several months ahead
- Good for
- Families, couples, anyone happy to get messy
- Royal bonfire: in Manak Chowk at the City Palace, Udaipur.
- Jaipur speciality: gulal gota, thin lac balls of powder.
- Our way: private courtyards, natural colours, and our team beside you.
A bonfire for Prahlad, colour for Krishna
The demon king Hiranyakashipu demanded that his son Prahlad worship him instead of Vishnu. When the boy refused, the king's sister Holika, who could not be burnt, sat with him in a blazing pyre. The fire consumed Holika and spared Prahlad, because his faith protected him.
The bonfire: on the evening of the full moon of Phalgun, every town and village lights Holika Dahan, the burning of Holika, for the triumph of devotion over cruelty.
The colour belongs to Krishna: in Braj, the country of his childhood along the Yamuna, the dark-skinned boy envied the fair Radha and smeared her face with colour.
- The chase: the women of Radha's village chased him away with sticks, and Braj has played that game every spring for centuries.
- Braj comes west: Rajasthan's royal houses carried images of Krishna to Jaipur and Nathdwara in the seventeenth century, and with them came the songs and colours of Braj Holi.
- In the paintings: in the court paintings of Udaipur and Kota, the Maharanas are sprayed with coloured water by their courtiers at Holi.
- A harvest festival: it marks the ripening of the winter crops. On bonfire night farmers roast the first green ears of wheat and chickpeas in the flames and share them for luck.
- A festival of spring: of the palash, the flame-of-the-forest tree, whose orange flowers were once boiled to make the original Holi colour.
- Rules suspended: for one morning caste, age and rank are set aside, and everyone may colour everyone.
- The catch: that is its joy, and also the reason it needs care.
When Holi falls
The last month: Phalgun is the last month of the Hindu year in the north.
The order: the bonfire is lit on the evening of the full moon, and the day of colour follows the next morning.
Confirmed each year: we confirm the dates as soon as the calendars are published.
- Date
- Phalgun Purnima, the full moon of Phalgun
- Usual month
- March, occasionally late February
- Holika Dahan 2027
- Expected on 21 March
- Colour day 2027
- Expected on 22 March
- Late March days
- Often high twenties or low thirties
- Mornings
- Cool enough for a light layer
- Braj starts early: about a week before, with the famous Laddoo Holi and Lathmar Holi at Barsana and Nandgaon, each on its own lunar date.
- Rajasthan warms up: the songs and drums begin weeks before, in the month of Phalgun.
- It doesn't really end: the next morning, the women of Rajasthan begin the eighteen days of Gangaur.
- The weather: warm days, soft evenings and cool mornings in late February and March.
- Busy week: it is a holiday week for Indian families, so the best hotels in Udaipur and Jaipur fill early.
- Month guide: Rajasthan in March covers the wider season.
Where to spend Holi
Udaipur, the royal bonfire
The bonfire: on the full-moon evening, the former royal household of Mewar keeps its own Holika Dahan in Manak Chowk at the City Palace, and local families crowd in to watch.
- The morning: we arrange a private Holi in a courtyard by the lake. It is our favourite way to spend the festival.
- Read more: our journal on Holi in Udaipur describes it.
Jaipur, the days of anticipation
The bazaars: in the week before, the walled city is piled with gulal, coloured powder.
- Gulal gota: on Maniharon ka Rasta, lac-workers make thin balls of lac filled with powder that burst softly when thrown, a speciality from the days of the royal court.
- Govind Dev Ji: the temple of the city's most loved Krishna fills with spring songs.
- On the day: the old city plays hard, so we watch from a rooftop or play in a private garden.
Braj, the wildest Holi in India
Where: Barsana and Nandgaon, just over the border in Uttar Pradesh.
- Lathmar Holi: the women of Barsana rain blows with long bamboo staves on the shielded men of Nandgaon, amid clouds of colour.
- Vrindavan: the Banke Bihari temple showers its devotees with flowers and colour.
- Be ready: it is extraordinary and very intense. Our Mathura and Vrindavan guide explains every event.
Pushkar, music and abandon
The scene: drums and dancing in the main square, drawing young travellers from around the world.
- The warning: it is not for the shy, and the crowds can be rough.
- Our way: we take guests only to a hotel celebration there, with our team. Our Pushkar guide explains the town.
Shekhawati, the chang nights
What: for weeks before Holi, the men of the painted towns gather in the squares after dark to beat the chang, a large frame drum, and dance in circles.
- In disguise: sometimes in women's dress.
- Why go: one of the most joyful and least-known Holi traditions in Rajasthan. Our painted towns of Shekhawati journey can be timed for it.
Bikaner and Jaisalmer, street theatre
- Ramat: folk street theatre in the squares of the old desert cities in the nights before the festival.
- And more: songs and gatherings in the lanes. Our Bikaner guide has the city's festival calendar.
Holi hour by hour, from the bonfire to the bath
The afternoon before, worship of the pyre
The pyres: piles of wood and cow-dung cakes grow at every crossroads for days.
- The worship: in the afternoon of the full moon, women wind raw cotton thread around the pyre and offer water, turmeric, grain and sweets.
- See it: walk the old city with your guide.
Evening, Holika Dahan
The lighting: after dark, at the auspicious hour.
- The rituals: families walk around the flames, toss in ears of green wheat and coconuts, and carry embers home for luck.
- In Udaipur: the royal bonfire at the City Palace, then a walk past the neighbourhood fires in the lanes.
Morning, the colour
Early start: by eight the streets are full of people with powder and water, and the drums are going.
- Our gathering: a private courtyard or garden with natural colours, gulal gota, a drummer, homemade sweets and cold thandai.
- How long: play for an hour or the whole morning.
Midday, the great wash
By noon: the play winds down and the whole city goes home to wash.
- The city: shops are closed and the streets are quiet.
- You: a long bath, a good lunch and a rest.
Evening, white clothes and visits
- The visits: families come out again in clean white clothes, visiting relatives and friends with plates of sweets and embracing each other.
- Why go out: it is the gentlest hour of Holi, and a lovely time to walk.
The colours, old and new
Palash: the orange flowers of the flame-of-the-forest, which blazes across the Aravallis in February and March, were soaked overnight to make saffron-coloured water.
Other natural colours: turmeric gave yellow, the bark and flowers of other trees gave reds and pinks, and indigo gave blue.
- Old gulal: soft dry powder coloured with flowers and mixed with fine flour or arrowroot, the best of it scented with rose or sandalwood.
- Today: most Holi colour is factory-made, and the cheapest is the worst.
- Avoid street colour: bright pastes and glittering powders sold loose can contain industrial dyes and metal, and they stain and sting.
- What we provide: herbal gulal made from flowers and starch, easy to find in the better shops of Jaipur and Udaipur.
- The royal way: Jaipur's gulal gota, thin lac shells the size of a lime filled with gulal, thrown to burst softly on the shoulder. The most elegant way to play of all.
Safety, consent and comfort
A gentle touch of gulal on the cheek with a smile and Holi hai is the custom. If someone does not want to play, the decent thing is to leave them alone, and you are entitled to say no. Our team stays with you throughout, and we choose private courtyards and rooftops over the open street.
The spirit: anyone may colour anyone, and most of the time that is wonderful.
The problem: some men in street crowds use the festival as an excuse for unwanted touching, especially of women.
- Rowdiness: some groups become rowdy as the morning goes on, sometimes after drinking or bhang.
- Harsh colours: some sold in the street contain harsh chemicals, metallic powders or dyes that irritate skin and eyes.
- Not a reason to stay away: none of this should stop you enjoying Holi. It is the reason we plan it carefully.
- Women travellers: play only in private gatherings or with our team, because open-street crowds can turn uncomfortable quickly. Our page for women travellers has more.
- Natural colours only: use the gulal we provide, and avoid bright pastes, silver and gold powders and anything sold loose in the street.
- Oil first: rub coconut or mustard oil into your hair and skin before you play. The colour comes off far more easily.
- Eyes and mouth: wear sunglasses, and keep your mouth closed when someone approaches with a fistful of powder.
- Bhang: the cannabis preparation mixed into some thandai and sweets is strong and slow to act. Always ask. Ours is made without it unless you request otherwise.
- Valuables: seal your phone in a plastic pouch, and leave jewellery and watches in the hotel safe.
- Who not to colour: animals, people clearly not playing, and anyone near a temple during worship.
- Tell us beforehand: about asthma, sensitive skin or contact lenses, and we will keep your play gentle and dry.
What to wear and pack
Old cotton clothes: ones you are happy to throw away. White shows the colour best, and is the traditional choice.
Old shoes: closed shoes or sandals you don't mind ruining. Colour and water run everywhere.
- A spare set: clothes and a towel in a bag, which your chauffeur keeps in the car.
- Head and eyes: a scarf or cap for your hair, and sunglasses.
- Skin care: coconut oil for skin and hair, and a gentle cleanser for afterwards.
- Lingering pink: it can stay on your skin for a day or two, which most people wear with pride.
- The full list: our packing guide has one for every season.
The sweets and drinks of Holi
Gujiya: the sweet of the festival, half-moons of pastry filled with mawa, milk cooked down until thick and sweet, with nuts and cardamom.
How gujiya are finished: fried and sometimes dipped in syrup. Families make them by the hundred and send plates to relatives and neighbours.
- Alongside: malpua, dahi bada, lentil dumplings soaked in yoghurt, and crisp savoury snacks for guests who arrive all afternoon.
- Thandai: the cold drink of Holi, milk blended with almonds, fennel, melon seeds, rose petals and black pepper.
- Always ask: in some homes and stalls thandai is laced with bhang.
- Read more: our Rajasthani sweets guide and food of Jaipur guide.
The songs and drums of Phalgun
Phag: in the weeks of Phalgun, Rajasthan sings the spring songs of Holi, many about Krishna and Radha teasing and flirting.
The chang: village men hold the big frame drum up on one hand, strike it with the other, and dance in circles late into the night.
- Rasiya: in Braj, temple musicians sing playful songs to which the crowd sings back.
- Ask for a translation: the verses are often much cheekier than visitors expect, and they are the best way to understand why Holi is loved.
- The musicians: our pages on folk music and dance and the Manganiyar singers introduce them.
Etiquette and respect
The words: say Holi hai, it's Holi, when you throw colour, and bura na mano, don't take offence, if you get carried away. Everyone will laugh.
Begin gently: a touch of dry gulal on the cheek or forehead is the respectful first colour, especially with older people.
- Elders: touch their feet, or simply fold your hands, if you are playing with a family. They will bless you with colour in return.
- Leave some alone: don't colour anyone clearly not playing, and never anyone in mourning.
- Bonfire night: Holika Dahan is a ritual, not a party, until the fire is lit.
- Cameras: ask before photographing people, and protect your camera in the colour. Our photography tips explain how.
How we plan your Holi
In Udaipur: the royal Holika Dahan, then a private courtyard Holi the next morning.
In Jaipur: a rooftop or private garden, with natural colours, sweets and a drummer.
- Book
- Several months ahead
- Three moments
- Bonfire, colour morning, afternoon rest
- Colour morning
- Monuments and shops closed until afternoon
- In the car
- Towels and spare clothes
- Long drives
- Not on the day of colour
- Routes: we choose ones that avoid the rowdiest streets.
- Why book early: Holi is a holiday week for Indian families, and the hotels of Udaipur and Jaipur fill early.
- A free day: sightseeing on Holi morning is not possible in most cities, so we keep that day free.
Where to stay in Udaipur
Inside the City Palace: Shiv Niwas Palace and Fateh Prakash Palace are a short walk from the royal bonfire.
- The romantic retreat: Taj Lake Palace, on the day of colour.
- Gardens for a private Holi: The Oberoi Udaivilas.
Where to stay in Jaipur
Space: Rambagh Palace gives you lawns for a private celebration.
- Calm: The Oberoi Rajvilas is calmer still.
- The drums: Samode Haveli puts you inside the old city, for those who want to hear them.
Journeys and places to combine with Holi
Holi in Rajasthan
- Length: nine nights.
- The route: Braj for Lathmar Holi, Jaipur for the days of anticipation, then Udaipur for the royal bonfire and a private day of colour.
Gangaur and the Mewar Festival
- Gangaur: begins the day after Holi and ends about eighteen days later with processions to the lakes.
- In Udaipur: it coincides with the spring Mewar Festival. Stay on, or come back.
The Taj Mahal and Braj
- Geography: Braj lies between Delhi and Agra.
- The pairing: Holi there goes naturally with the Taj Mahal at sunrise and our Rajasthan with the Taj Mahal journey.
Tigers in spring
- Why: from March the forests of Ranthambore thin out and tigers come to the waterholes.
- The contrast: a few nights of safaris after Holi.
Holi for families, couples and returning friends
For families
The perfect morning: a private courtyard with water pistols, gentle colours, a drummer and plates of gujiya.
- Braj: watch it from a rooftop only with older children, or skip it.
- Read more: our family journeys and our guide to travelling with children.
For couples
- The plan: end at Taj Lake Palace, play an hour of Holi in a courtyard, then spend the afternoon on the water while the city washes.
- Honeymoons: our honeymoon journeys can be shaped around the festival.
For repeat visitors
A village Holi: a night at a family-run fort in Mewar or Shekhawati, joining the family's own Holika Dahan and playing colour with the village children.
- As our grandparents knew it: that is Holi in its oldest form.
- Nathdwara: or follow Krishna's trail there, where the temple celebrates spring with special adornments and songs.
For the quietly curious
Watch, don't play: see the bonfire night, which is calm and beautiful.
- The morning: a hotel terrace with a book and a view.
- The late afternoon: come down when families walk out in clean white clothes, the gentlest side of the festival.
What we tell our cousins before Holi
Breakfast first: it is a long, energetic morning, and the sweets come later.
- Water, not just thandai: the March sun is stronger than it feels when you are wet.
- Washing off: cool water first, then soap. Hot water sets some dyes.
- No long drives: roads are unpredictable until the afternoon on the day of colour.
Who will love Holi, and who won't
You will love it if: you enjoy celebration, music and a little chaos, and are happy to be covered in colour.
Understanding: it suits those who want to understand a festival rather than just photograph it.
- Families: children adore a private courtyard Holi, with water pistols, gentle colours and sweets.
- Not for you if: you dislike crowds or mess, or want the monuments at their quietest.
- What to expect: a holiday week, and a day of colour that closes much of the city until the afternoon.
- The calm alternative: come in February, on a journey such as Rajasthan for Two.
- Other options: our festival calendar shows them.