The road in brief
One long day: about 340 kilometres and five to six hours of driving. Fine with a good lunch, tiring without one.
Two easy days: three hours to Pushkar, a night by the lake, then on to Jodhpur the next day.
- Jaipur to Kishangarh
- About 100 km, under two hours
- Jaipur to Ajmer
- About 135 km, two and a half hours
- Jaipur to Pushkar
- About 150 km, about three hours
- Ajmer to Pushkar
- About 15 km, over Nag Pahar
- Jodhpur to Khimsar
- About two hours
- The desert way: a night at Khimsar, a sixteenth-century fort with dunes nearby, about two hours from Jodhpur.
- The road surface: the main highways are generally good. The last stretches to Khimsar's dunes are slower.
- Flying: possible, but it usually means a connection and a morning lost to airports. On this leg the road wins.
- Trains: possible too, but rarely faster door to door, and you miss Pushkar. Our train or car post explains.
Kishangarh, the painters' kingdom
Bani Thani: Kishangarh's school of miniature painting is known for its elongated eyes and arched brows, and above all for the image called Bani Thani, often described as India's Mona Lisa.
The fort by the lake: the old fort and Phool Mahal stand beside Gundolav lake, quiet and rarely visited.
- Marble town: Kishangarh is one of India's great marble markets. The yards along the highway are vast and strangely beautiful.
- How long: an hour or two is enough. Under two hours from Jaipur, it makes a natural first stop.
- More: our Kishangarh guide tells the story of the painters and their patron.
Ajmer, the shrine at the crossroads
The dargah: the tomb of the Sufi saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti, one of the most revered shrines in South Asia, visited by people of every faith. See Ajmer Sharif.
How to visit: cover your head, dress modestly, leave shoes at the gate and go with a guide who knows the shrine.
- The old mosque: the Adhai Din ka Jhonpra, built on the remains of older temples and colleges, with carved pillars and arches.
- The lake: Ana Sagar, with marble pavilions on its embankment, is a quiet place for a breath.
- Busy times: the Urs, the saint's death anniversary, draws vast crowds. We plan around it unless you come for it. See the Urs festival.
- How long: two hours for the dargah and the old city. Our Ajmer guide has more.
Pushkar, a night by the sacred lake
Why stop: Pushkar is one of Hinduism's holiest pilgrim towns, and one of the very few with a temple to Brahma. See the Brahma temple.
The evening aarti: lamps on the ghats at dusk, bells and chanting across the water. It is the reason to arrive by late afternoon.
- Known for
- The lake, 52 ghats, the Brahma temple
- From Jaipur
- About 150 km, about three hours
- Town rules
- Vegetarian, no alcohol, shoes off on the ghats
- The fair
- Kartik, usually October or November
- Nights
- One on this road, two if you can
- The dawn climb: up to the Savitri temple on the hill above town, for the lake and the desert in the first light.
- Be wary of the flower sellers: on the ghats, people may press flowers into your hand and ask for a large donation for a blessing. Your guide will steer you.
- Where to stay: quiet resorts in the countryside around town have pools and space. Our Pushkar guide explains the choices.
- At fair time: the Pushkar Camel Fair transforms the town. Book many months ahead.
The second day, Pushkar to Jodhpur
The distance: roughly four hours of driving, depending on the road your chauffeur chooses that season.
Leave after the dawn walk: breakfast in Pushkar, on the road by nine or ten, in Jodhpur for a late lunch.
- The land changes: fields of millet and mustard give way to scrub, sand and the first lone khejri trees, the sacred tree of the desert.
- Marwar dress: men's turbans grow brighter, and women's skirts and veils swing with mirrorwork.
- Village stops: your chauffeur can stop at a well or a potter's yard, always with permission and never for long.
- Arrive with time: an afternoon rest, then Mehrangarh or the clock tower bazaar in the evening light.
The desert alternative, a night at Khimsar
The fort: Khimsar Fort was begun in 1523 by Rao Karamsji, a son of Jodhpur's founder Rao Jodha, and remains the family's home. Part is a heritage hotel.
The drive: about five to six hours from Jaipur, by way of Ajmer and Merta, then about two hours on to Jodhpur.
- Merta on the way: the old seat of the Merta Rathores, the family of the poet-saint Meera Bai, whose devotional songs to Krishna are still sung across India.
- The dunes: a dune village near Khimsar gives you sand, sunset and silence without the long drive to Jaisalmer.
- Onward to Bikaner: Khimsar also sits on the road between Jodhpur and Nagaur, so it works on a desert triangle too.
- Who it suits: families, couples and anyone who wants a taste of the Thar early in the journey.
A detour for the salt lake and the flamingos
Where: Sambhar Lake, about 70 to 80 kilometres west of Jaipur, an hour and a half to two hours by road.
Why go: salt pans stretching to the horizon, a little railway through the flats, and in winter, flamingos and other wading birds.
- How to fit it: combine it with Kishangarh on the way towards Ajmer. It turns the day into a longer one, so we often add the Pushkar night.
- The temple: the Shakambhari Mata temple near the lake is one of the region's old pilgrim places.
- Best season: winter, from about November to February, for the birds and the light.
From Dhundhar to Marwar, through the window
Dhundhar's farmland: around Jaipur, flat fields of wheat and mustard, low Aravalli ridges and villages of brick and whitewash.
Marble and more marble: around Kishangarh, the highway is lined with stone yards, slabs stacked like books and cranes moving blocks the size of cars.
- The Nag Pahar ridge: between Ajmer and Pushkar, a short, winding climb over the hills, then the lake below.
- Into Marwar: sand creeps into the fields, villages spread out, and the houses turn to stone and mud with flat roofs for drying chillies.
- The khejri tree: a hardy, thorny tree that feeds goats, shades herders and holds the soil. The Bishnoi community protect it with their lives. Our Bishnoi villages page tells the story.
- Peacocks and blackbuck: in the fields near Bishnoi villages, peacocks strut in the open and blackbuck graze without fear.
- Bright turbans: Marwari men wear their safa in strong reds, saffrons and prints. It is the clearest sign you have crossed into Jodhpur's old kingdom.
What to eat on this road
Kachori in Ajmer: the old city's sweet shops fry kachori for breakfast. Eat it hot, with chutney.
Malpua in Pushkar: a thick pancake fried in ghee and soaked in syrup, eaten hot with rabri. Pushkar is entirely vegetarian and alcohol-free. Our Pushkar food guide names the lanes.
- Gulkand: Pushkar's rose fields produce a sweet rose-petal preserve. A jar travels well.
- Mirchi bada in Jodhpur: a large green chilli stuffed with spiced potato, dipped in batter and fried. Our food of Jodhpur guide explains where.
- Pyaaz kachori: the onion kachori Jodhpur and Jaipur both claim. Our pyaaz kachori guide settles nothing, happily.
- Lunch on the road: we stop at a heritage hotel or a dhaba we trust, with clean kitchens and washrooms.
What most travellers miss on this road
Ana Sagar at sunrise: Ajmer's lake, with the marble pavilions of Shah Jahan on its embankment, is beautiful and empty early in the morning.
The Savitri temple climb: in Pushkar, the walk up the hill before dawn, for the lake turning silver and the desert beyond. See the Savitri temple.
- Qawwali at the dargah: in the evening, the singers in Ajmer's courtyard. Sit quietly at the edge and listen.
- Kishangarh's old town: the fort and Gundolav lake, minutes from the highway, almost always quiet.
- The sound of the desert: at Khimsar, after dark, step away from the lights and listen. The silence is the luxury.
Arriving in Jodhpur, and where to stay
The first evening: a walk in the clock tower bazaar or a drink with a view of the fort. Keep Mehrangarh itself for the next morning, when it opens.
The palace: Umaid Bhawan Palace, on Chittar hill, where part of the building is still the royal family's home.
- Under the fort: RAAS Jodhpur, with its terraces facing Mehrangarh across the old city.
- The family house: Ajit Bhawan, a heritage hotel near the palace, run by a branch of the royal family.
- Out of town: Rohet Garh, about 40 kilometres south, or Bal Samand Lake Palace on the edge of the city.
- More choice: our Jodhpur luxury hotels guide compares them.
Before you set out
Pack a day bag: a scarf for your head at the dargah, slip-on shoes, water, sunscreen and some small notes for offerings.
Leave valuables in the car: the lanes to the dargah are crowded. Keep your phone and wallet close.
- Photography: not allowed in some parts of the shrines. Ask your guide before raising a camera.
- Check the calendar: Thursdays and festival days are busiest at Ajmer. The Urs and the Pushkar fair change everything, for better or worse.
- Tell us your pace: if you would rather skip the shrines and drive straight through, we plan a long lunch at a heritage hotel instead.
How we plan the drive
Two shrines, two dress codes: at Ajmer's dargah, heads covered. At Pushkar's temples and ghats, shoes off. Pack a scarf and slip-on shoes.
Clean stops: we plan washroom and chai stops at hotels and restaurants we know, every two hours or so.
- Leave Jaipur
- After a morning's sightseeing
- Lunch
- In Ajmer or Pushkar, at a place we trust
- Driving limit
- Under five or six hours a day
- After dark
- Never on the highway
- Carry
- Head scarf for Ajmer, water, passport
- Leather: some temples restrict leather inside. Leave belts and bags in the car if unsure.
- Fog and rain: winter mornings can be misty and monsoon days wet. Your chauffeur checks the road before you leave.
- Every time and distance: our road distances guide lists the main legs.
The road through the year
October to March: the best months, with clear skies and comfortable days. Mornings in December and January are cold.
Kartik: the month of the Pushkar fair, usually October or November. Busy, unforgettable, and best booked a long way ahead.
- April to June: hot, especially as you move west into Marwar. We leave very early and stop indoors.
- The monsoon: the land turns briefly green, and the dunes near Khimsar firm up after rain. Roads are mostly fine, with a few slow stretches.
- The Marwar Festival: held in Jodhpur around the Sharad Purnima full moon, usually in October. See the Marwar Festival.
Journeys that take this road
Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur: the classic three cities, continuing from Jodhpur to Udaipur via Ranakpur. See the Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur journey.
The desert triangle: Jaipur to Jodhpur, then Jaisalmer and Bikaner. See the desert triangle journey.
- Royal Rajputana: our signature journey, with two nights or more in each city. See Royal Rajputana.
- Sacred Rajasthan: Pushkar and Ajmer are the heart of our sacred Rajasthan journey.
- What comes next: most guests go on to Jaisalmer. Read our Jodhpur to Jaisalmer route.
Make the road yours
For families
- Short days: Jaipur to Pushkar, a camel cart ride at the edge of town, then on to Jodhpur. Two days of three or four hours each.
- Or the dunes: Khimsar's dune village is a desert adventure without the long drive west.
For couples
- A slow lake evening: a night in Pushkar for the aarti and the sunrise from Savitri hill, then a palace in Jodhpur.
For art lovers
- Painters and shrines: Kishangarh for its miniatures, Ajmer's carved mosque, then Jodhpur's Mehrangarh museum, one of the finest in India.
For repeat visitors
- The salt and the saint: Sambhar Lake's flamingos, then Merta and a night at Khimsar, skipping the busier towns entirely.
Who will love this road
Pilgrims and the curious: a Sufi shrine and a Hindu lake an hour apart is something few countries can show you.
Art lovers: Kishangarh's painting is one of the great achievements of Rajput art.
- First-timers: the road is easy, the stops well placed and the arrival spectacular.
- Less ideal for: anyone who dislikes crowds at shrines. On busy days, Ajmer and Pushkar are full, and we route around them.
- For the full picture: read our Jodhpur guide and our Marwar region guide.