A horse bred for the desert, and a country made for riding
Riding at a walk, you hear the well wheel turning and the bells on the goats. At a canter across open ground, the blackbuck run beside you. It is the landscape the Rajput horsemen knew, and in the Bishnoi villages it has changed less than almost anywhere in India.
The horse of this desert: for centuries the Rathore Rajputs, who ruled Marwar from Jodhpur after Rao Jodha began Mehrangarh in 1459, bred Marwaris for courage, stamina and loyalty.
The cavalry stables: noble families across the kingdom kept horses for the Jodhpur cavalry.
- Nights
- Ten: Jodhpur 2, Rohet 2, riding camps 4, Mihir Garh 2
- Pace
- About five riding days, rest at midday, two easy city days
- Best months
- October to March, best November to February
- Good for
- Confident riders who care about the horse
- Starts
- Jodhpur Airport (JDH)
- Ends
- Mihir Garh, then Jodhpur Airport
- In the ballads: Rajput songs are full of horses who carried their riders through impossible battles.
- Jodhpurs: the city gave its name to the riding breeches that went round the world with its polo players.
- Polo fame: in the 1920s the state's polo team was among the most famous anywhere.
- The decline: after Independence the cavalry was gone, the estates were broken up, and many fine horses were sold off or neglected.
- The survival: thanks in good part to a handful of breeders in Marwar and Shekhawati who kept their bloodlines going and worked to have the breed recognised.
- The full story: our journal piece on Marwari horses.
- Made for a horse: Marwar is the eastern Thar, flat scrub and farmland broken by rocky outcrops and patches of dune, laced with sand tracks between villages.
- Built around Rohet: the Rohet family were granted their estate south of Jodhpur in 1622, have bred Marwaris for generations, and have taken guests into the villages since the late 1980s.
- What we add: our own planning, a few palace nights in Jodhpur, and the thing we care about most on any animal journey: horses that are well treated.
The journey, day by day
- Jodhpur to Rohet
- About 40 km, under an hour
- Mihir Garh to Jodhpur Airport
- About an hour and a half
- Riding hours
- Cool mornings and late afternoons
- Midday
- Rest in the shade
- Surface
- Sand tracks and village paths, no tarmac
Days 1-2: Jodhpur and the fort of the sun
Met at Jodhpur Airport: rest through the first afternoon.
Mehrangarh at dusk: walk up to Mehrangarh, the Rathore fortress on its sheer rock, and watch the old city turn blue below as the light goes.
- Back at opening time: the next day, when the ramparts give the best view in Jodhpur.
- The museum in the heat: palanquins, paintings and arms.
- Horses in the paintings: Rathore rulers at war, at the hunt and in procession, on horses with the same curved ears as the ones you will ride. Your guide can tell you which battles they carried their riders through.
- The lanes at evening: Navchokiya and Brahmpuri with a local guide, and a mirchi bada if you are brave.
Days 3-4: Rohet, meeting the horses
South to Rohet: about 40 kilometres, under an hour, to Rohet and a long lunch at Rohet Garh.
The first ride: short and gentle in the late afternoon, and it matters. The stable team watches how you sit and handle a horse, then matches you with the right animal.
- Try your kit: if you brought your own helmet, gloves or half-chaps, use them on this ride.
- Mention old injuries: a stiff back or an old injury, so the team can adjust stirrups, saddle and pace before the long days.
- A dawn ride: on the fourth morning, along sand tracks past fields and villages, and through scrub where blackbuck graze.
- The village safari: after breakfast, meet Bishnoi families, Raika camel herders in bright red turbans, and potters who still throw water pots on hand-spun wheels.
- Feeding time: in the evening, watch the stable hands check every hoof and talk to each horse by name.
Days 5-8: in the saddle across Marwar
The rhythm: some hours in the cool of the morning, rest through the middle of the day in the shade, and riding again in the late afternoon until the light goes gold.
The paces: mostly walking, with trots along field edges and canters across open ground when the footing is good and the horses fresh.
Off the roads: the route keeps to sand tracks and village paths, avoiding tarmac entirely.
- Camp ahead of you: a crew moves ahead by vehicle, so each evening you ride into a tented camp already set up in the scrub or beside a village.
- Horses first: watered, fed and checked before anyone thinks of dinner.
- By the fire: nights under a sky full of stars. Comfort is simpler than in a palace, and that is part of the pleasure.
- The country most only glimpse: Bishnoi hamlets where chinkara and nilgai wander near the houses, wells where women draw water, and khejri trees where the village meets.
- In winter: fields of wheat and mustard.
- The welcome: children run out to see the horses, herders stop to talk. Accept tea when it is offered.
Days 9-10: Mihir Garh, the fort in the sand
The last stretch: ride into Mihir Garh, the Rohet family's newer fort-style hotel, standing alone among the sand and scrub.
A palace after camp: the spacious suites feel like one.
- Rest for everyone: spend the afternoon resting, and let the stable team give the horses theirs.
- The tenth day: an easy morning ride if you are still keen, or explore on foot, visit a Bishnoi family, or sit on the ramparts and watch the desert.
- A last dinner: with stories of the ride.
- Home: the next morning, drive back to Jodhpur Airport, about an hour and a half.
How we choose a stable, and what we check
We work only with established stables run by families who have bred Marwari horses for generations, and whom we have visited ourselves. Our team looks at the horses as a vet would, then at the people who look after them. If anything worries us and is not put right, we stop sending guests.
Condition: horses carry healthy weight, with bright eyes, a good coat and no ribs or hip bones showing.
- Feet and shoes: hooves are trimmed and shod regularly, and nobody rides a horse that is lame or sore.
- Tack: saddles and girths fit each horse, with no rubs, sores or galls, and bits and nosebands are ordinary and gentle, never harsh.
- Workload: sensible riding hours for the heat, a long rest in the shade at midday, water at every stop, and rest days built into the route.
- Riders: the stable assesses every rider before a long ride, sets a weight limit, and matches each person to a suitable horse.
- Back-up: a support vehicle and crew travel with the ride, with water, feed and first aid for horses and people.
- Who doesn't work: mares in foal, horses too young for work and elderly horses are not used for safaris.
- No dancing-horse shows: some training methods behind them are harsh. We would rather you watch the stable at feeding time.
The Rohet family's stables
One of the finest: Rohet Garh keeps one of the best Marwari stables in the country.
- Horsemen for generations: the family served the Jodhpur rulers as horsemen, and a namesake of the estate's founder played polo for Jodhpur in the 1920s.
- What they run: short rides for guests of every level, and multi-day riding safaris with mobile tented camps for confident riders.
- The natural end point: their newer fort at Mihir Garh.
Other stables we would consider
Dundlod: in Shekhawati, the Dundlod family, whose name is closely tied to the revival of the breed, have long run riding safaris from their fort.
- Shorter rides: a few heritage hotels in Godwar and Marwar, including Rawla Narlai, keep Marwari horses.
- The same checks: we assess each stable the same way, and tell you honestly which suits your riding.
How good a rider do you need to be?
Confident across open country: for the multi-day ride you should be comfortable at a walk, trot and canter.
Fit for the saddle: able to spend several hours a day riding, for several days in a row.
- Multi-day ride
- Confident at walk, trot and canter
- Fitness
- Several hours a day, several days running
- Occasional riders
- Morning rides from the forts
- Beginners
- A gentle paddock introduction
- Non-riders
- Follow by jeep
- In control: able to manage your horse in a group, mount and dismount on your own, and stay balanced if a horse shies at a goat or a motorbike.
- The horse: Marwaris are spirited and intelligent, and respond to a quiet, confident hand.
- Ride only occasionally? We swap the long days for morning rides from Rohet Garh and Mihir Garh, with village drives, cooking lessons and time by the pool in between.
- Never ridden? The stable will happily give you a gentle introduction in the paddock, or you can simply visit the horses at feeding time.
- Non-riding partners: very welcome. They follow the ride by jeep with a guide, meet you at lunch and each camp, and spend mornings in Bishnoi villages, at a potter's wheel or with a book.
- The levels explained: our page on Marwari horse safaris.
Where you'll stay
Jodhpur: under the fort or in a palace
Under the fort: RAAS Jodhpur sits in the old city directly below Mehrangarh, with the floodlit fort above the pool at night.
- A palace: Umaid Bhawan Palace, built between 1929 and 1943 on its own hill, has some of the finest Art Deco rooms in Asia.
- Family-run: Ajit Bhawan, built for a younger brother of Maharaja Umaid Singh, has a warm, easy feel.
Rohet Garh, the family fort by the lake
What it is: a lived-in country fort of sandstone and whitewash, opened to guests in 1990 and still run by the family.
- The pool: in a courtyard framed by four chhatris.
- A writer's retreat: Bruce Chatwin worked on The Songlines here in the 1980s.
The riding camps
Set up ahead of you: simple, comfortable tents raised each day by the camp crew.
- What to expect: good food cooked over a fire, a quiet night and a dawn chorus of peacocks and partridges.
- Details first: arrangements depend on the ride and the season, and we go through them with you before you book.
Mihir Garh, the fort in the open country
- Alone in the desert: the Rohet family's newer fort-style hotel stands among the sand and scrub, with spacious suites.
- One of the best arrivals in Rajasthan: riding into it after days in camp.
What you'll ride through
The Bishnoi: they follow the teachings of Guru Jambheshwar, who founded the faith in 1485. Its rules forbid cutting green trees and killing animals.
Khejarli, 1730: near Jodhpur, Amrita Devi and as many as 363 Bishnois died trying to stop soldiers cutting their khejri trees.
What the faith means today: blackbuck, chinkara and nilgai grazing in the fields, water and grain put out for animals, and neat, round-walled homes swept spotless.
- Bishnoi faith
- Founded 1485 by Guru Jambheshwar
- Khejarli
- 1730, as many as 363 died for trees
- Lifeline tree
- Khejri
- Herders
- The Raika
- Near Bishnoi homes
- No smoking, no meat
- Respect: never smoke near a Bishnoi home, never bring meat, and keep well back from the animals.
- The full story: our journal on Bishnoi conservation.
- The khejri tree: its leaves feed goats and camels, its pods become sangri, the desert bean, and its shade is where the village meets.
- The Raika herders: they move camels, sheep and goats across this country for grazing, and know animals as well as anyone you will meet.
- Sit with them: over tea, and ask about their camels. Read about them in the Rabari herders.
- Winter birds: village ponds and wetlands draw ducks, egrets, herons, storks and waders, with harriers hunting over the fields.
- In the scrub: larks, bee-eaters, rollers, peafowl and grey francolins.
- At dusk: desert foxes and jackals.
When to ride
November to February: the best time for long rides, with warm, sunny days, cool mornings and clear light.
Cold camp nights: in December and January they can fall close to freezing, so pack proper warm layers and expect a fire after dinner.
October and March: warmer, especially at midday, and riding hours are shorter to protect the horses.
- Best for long rides
- November to February
- Shorter riding hours
- October and March
- No long safaris
- April to June
- Nagaur cattle fair
- January or February
- Marwar Festival
- October, around Sharad Purnima
- April to June: the heat is fierce and riding is limited to the first hours after dawn, so we don't run long safaris.
- The monsoon: July to September is quiet and green in patches, but tracks can be muddy and plans uncertain.
- The Nagaur fair: the Nagaur cattle fair in January or February brings thousands of bullocks, camels and Marwari horses to the grounds outside Nagaur, with races and competitions.
- Horses traded the old way: Nagaur is a remarkable place to see it.
- Music in October: the Marwar Festival and the Rajasthan International Folk Festival fill Jodhpur with music around the full moon of Sharad Purnima.
- Gangaur at Rohet Garh: in March or April, five evenings of song and dance in the zenana courtyard.
Make it yours
Shorter: five nights
- The shape: one night in Jodhpur and four between Rohet Garh and Mihir Garh, with a morning ride each day and a single long ride between the two forts.
- Who it suits: riders who want horses at the heart of a holiday without nights in camp.
Longer: two weeks
More saddle, or more rest: add riding days, or follow the ride with a few quiet nights.
- South to the hills: Narlai for a stepwell dinner and the granite hill, the leopards of Jawai, and the lakes of Udaipur.
- By road: our Mewar and Marwar journey covers that country.
With polo
Jodhpur's other horse tradition: in the season we can arrange for you to watch a match.
- For strong riders: a lesson or a private polo match.
- The season explained: our page on polo and horses.
For non-riders in the party
- Plenty to do: follow by jeep, join a bird walk, take a cooking lesson in the Rohet family kitchen, or spend a day in Jodhpur's bazaars.
- For the whole family: our Village Rajasthan journey of rawlas, forts and farms.
How we look after you
Met and seen off: at Jodhpur Airport, and to the departure gate at the end.
A private chauffeur: handles every transfer and stays close to the ride, so your luggage, water and spare clothes are never far away.
- Legs
- Long trousers or breeches
- Feet
- Closed shoes or boots with a small heel
- Hands and head
- Gloves and a hat
- Helmet
- Bring your own if you have one
- Insurance
- Check it covers riding
- Local guides: through Mehrangarh, the old city and the Bishnoi villages, explaining what you see.
- The riding plan, checked first: hours in the saddle, rider weight limits, saddles, helmets and the horse the stable has in mind for you.
- Your planner on WhatsApp: throughout, for a change of pace, a sore back, a doctor or a different afternoon.
- Insurance: please check your travel insurance covers riding. Our guide to travel insurance explains what to look for.
- No published prices: every ride is different. After one conversation about how you ride and travel, we send a quote and a day-by-day plan.
- Ready? Plan your journey with one of our planners.
Who will love this journey, and who won't
From the saddle: you will love it if you are a confident rider who wants to see a country this way.
Early and open: if you enjoy early mornings, open landscapes and simple camps.
- People as much as palaces: if meeting herders, potters and farmers matters to you.
- The ears: if you have heard of the Marwari's curved ears and always wanted to ride one.
- Not right if: you haven't ridden for years and aren't ready to be honest about it, you want a pool and a spa every night, or you travel between April and September.
- Marwar by road instead: with village forts and a morning ride or two, choose our Village Rajasthan journey.
- Drawn to the desert: Under the Thar Sky takes you to Jaisalmer and the dunes, with gentle camel walks chosen with the same care for the animals.
